Installation Instructions

Cutaway Drawing PROCEDURE
It’s best to remove the seat and fuel tank as well as the dome lamp wiring. I like to “fireproof” the cab with carpet or anything that could cause a fire removed. Just a quick reminder that sparks will destroy glass but masking paper should protect the inside of your windows.

Tape the supplied template to the back of the cab (carefully centered in the recessed area). And outline it with a Sharpie Marker.

Install Photo 3

Now you grab a 1/8” drill bit and drill. We are going to drill through both panels to orient our work inside the cab. So drill as straight as possible but be sure to stay inside the outline. Three points (holes) along the top and bottom will do for now.

Install Photo 4

We are going to cut the metal ¾” above the top holes and ¾”below the bottom holes. Lay out the horizontal lines with your Sharpie and a straight edge. Lay out inside the “C” pillar with the supplied template (both sides). I drew a line around the existing window to show it will get cut here also. Once this is laid out you are ready to cut your cab. I like to take a break at this point and sort of look things over. The top cut should have a gentle arch and the bottom is close to straight. This cut will allow space to insert the new window panel – further trimming will be required to get a perfect fit.

Install Photo 5

Here we are after cutting. In this case I used a plasma cutter to speed things along. You can see light coming through the alignment holes.

Install Photo 6

Drill more alignment holes from the outside panel (stay inside the line). Slip the window panel in place and trace around it with a Sharpie. Hold it in place with the self drilling screws (use your alignment holes). You can use a straight edge to check along with as many alignment holes as you feel like.

Install Photo 7

Note: You take the panel out and trim back the inner cab metal and just keep messing with it until it fits perfect. I plan a 1/8” to 3/16” lap for easy wire feed welding (the corners are tight fit); it could be butt welded if a person wants to spend the time. You can leave a larger lap for the vertical portion (1/2”).

Install Photo 8

I like to grind a little notch every 2 inches or so around the inner flange (while it is out of the cab) where the pinch weld remains to hold the window gasket. This way you don’t cut the weld off when you cut out the back of the cab.

Install Photo 9

After the panel is fit we are ready to weld. You can keep certain of your alignment by checking the back of the cab. The spot welds will be outside the line and nice and even. Inside the “C” pillar you can see I took my time with short “stitches” with almost no warpage. 20 gauge welds nice.

Install Photo 10

Once the welding is done simply cut out the back metal. I cut just inside the line from the template. If you are concerned about the glass going in properly, cut three or four one inch pieces from your new rubber gasket with the lockstrip inserted (gasket is long) and set the glass in the opening (two on the bottom and at least one on top, it is nice to have help also). You then can fine tune the opening with an even gap all around (no tight spots).

You can tell by the photos that this could be finished with lead or a skim coat of filler and it looks factory. You will love the change in the look of your pickup!

Finished Window Details

Finished Window Details

Finished Window Details

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Big Window Instructions.pdf499.99 KB